Turnigy Trackstar 80a Turbo Manual

I have the firestorm 10t, converted it to brushless with turnigy trackstar combo, I got the highest kv available, the esc is 80a, so far everything runs sweet, and the temperatures are very good, I got the waterproof model so the programme card didnt work I had to buy the programme box, dont know if it was a one off or set like this from stock but it was very sluggish running from standing, then it would kick in and go, thought it had bad cogging until I got the programme box and found that the top speed and punch are set very low. Once this was changed it ran perfectly on a 2s, will be getting 3s soon so cant comment on that just yet. Overall very pleased with the combo and plenty of speed for the firestorm, and at a good price. I got mine from the uk, a very good ebay shop called rcstockroom2012, very helpful and very quick delivery Edited September 29, 2013 by trickstar.

Programming Info - This Document was there too, it explains what each programming option does The settings in detail The settings can be changed with either the LCD program box or the USB Link software on your PC. Make sure the ESC is calibrated to your radio before changing anything. Running Mode – should be self explanatory. Forward/Brake is best for racing, I have enabled reverse for drifting in the past but the ESC is slow to start going forward again so I wouldn’t recommend it. Drag Brake – The amount of brakes applied at neutral.

In the past I would run 10-15% to make the motor feel more like a brushed one. Now, I would run as close to 0% as you can get away with because it will help to carry more corner speed. If you are running anything above 20% then something is wrong with your setup.

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Turnigy trackstar any good? Ive just ordered a trackstar 120a turbo, only stock of program cards is the china warehouse. I was going to get the 80a/4000kv. Turnigy Trackstar 80A Turbo Sensored Brushless 1/12th 1/10th ESC (ROAR. There was no manual or instruction sheet on how to configure this ESC and the.

Voltage Protection – the cut-off voltage to protect your LiPo battery. Run it at whatever level you are comfortable with, too low and you might damage your LiPo, too high and the car might cut out unexpectedly under power. Personally I am at 3.2V per cell. DRRS Punch – for a punchier feel out of the corners. Higher level = more punch. I’ve been using levels between 7 and 9.

Brake Force – the amount of brake at full brake. I’ve always found 100% to be very strong and prone to lock up the wheels, I’m currently on 75%.

Reverse Force – I always set this at 100%, due to an apparent bug in previous versions where the reverse force affected the braking as well. Initial Brake – the amount of brake when you first start braking. I always set this to be the same as the Drag Brake, otherwise you might not have a linear braking feel. Neutral Range – The distance you need to move your throttle from neutral before the ESC applies power.

I use 6%, but I use highquality Futaba radio gear. Apparently lower-quality gear needs at least 9%. Boost Timing – this is where it starts to get interesting/confusing. Timing is added by the ESC in a total of 64steps (these are not degrees). This setting is the amount of timing added in the boost phase.

I have it set to 40 at the moment. Turbo Slope – This determines the rate at which the turbo timing is added, in steps/0.1s. A smaller number is a more gradual slope. Overheat Protection – I enable this, and I have yet to have an ESC overheat in a race. Turbo Timing – the amount of timing added in the turbo phase. Start RPM – the motor RPM at which the boost timing begins to be added. I am on 4,000.

Turbo Delay – the time delay after full throttle has been reached before the turbo timing is added. The ESC also waits until all the boost has been added before adding the turbo which gives a smoother feel. I am on 0.3s. Timing ACC – the rate at which the timing is added in the boost phase, measured in RPM/step.